Seiko: Presage Urushi Byakudan-Nuri Limited Edition

“Byakudan-Nuri”, in Japanese, is a technique that has been used for centuries to decorate “Urushi” lacquer. Because of the complexity of the craftsmanship involved, it was reserved exclusively for use in places and on objects of high status, including temples, shrines and on the armor of Shogun warlords.

This prestigious technique was used by Seiko for the new creation in the Presage collection, therefore called Presage Urushi Byakudan-Nuri.

The new timepiece, a limited edition of 2000 pieces, celebrates Japan’s deep fascination with the moon.

Three traditional techniques are used in combination to create the atmosphere and feeling of the moon against the night sky as dawn approaches. First, the dials are made with the traditional Urushi technique in which jet black lacquer is painted by hand onto the metal base of the dial, dried and then polished. These processes are repeated several times until the Japanese brand’s craftsman has achieved the exact depth of black that he desires. Using a new layer of Urushi as the binding agent, the sub-dials are then sprinkled with a layer of very fine metallic powder. The whole dial is then repeatedly painted with a red-tinged semi-transparent Urushi lacquer and then each new layer is dried and polished for many times, creating a subtle but deeply satisfying effect.

The moon is then added using Maki-e, in the form of the crescent shaped power reserve indicator. As with the Byakudan-nuri technique, the crescent is first coated with a layer of Urushi lacquer that acts as the adhesive to the fine, gilt-colored powder that is then applied to it. Once the powder is on the dial, the craftsman gently taps it to disperse the powder evenly across the surface and then uses his own specially chosen material to perfect the surface. The result is an indicator that not only reflects the shape of the crescent moon but has the moon’s shimmering, granular texture and contrasts with the smoothness of the sky against which it stands out.

Each one is the result of painstaking efforts over a number of weeks because this Byakudan-nuri technique requires much longer than is needed for a simple Urushi dial. Every step of these three complex processes is completed by hand by the craftsmen and women in the studio of Urushi master Isshu Tamura in the Hokuriku region of Honshu, Japan’s main island.

Tamura has been responsible for all the Urushi dials in the Presage collection.

The technical quality of the watch case, movement and all other components reflects that of the dial. The crystal is a dual-curved sapphire crystal, the exhibition case-back reveals the fine finishing of the 6R21 movement amechanical caliber with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second) and a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch case in stainless steel with a diameter of 40.5mm offers 10 bar water resistance.

Each of the 2000 Presage Urushi Byakudan-nuri Limited Edition pieces is offered with its own serial number and in a specially designed presentation case with a price of €. 2.500.

By Valeria Garavaglia