Excalibur Spider Monobalancier Huracan: Roger Dubuis da potere al colore

In Roger Dubuis’ product narrative, two words recur most frequently: hyper-watchmaking and adrenaline. What the former derives from is quickly said: extreme design, avant-garde technical solutions, constant research into modern materials – even those rarely used in the watchmaking world – and the design and development of complications of the highest craftsmanship. All aspects that, especially in recent years, have propelled the brand to a decidedly higher level than its competitors. The concept of adrenalin, on the other hand, is linked to some long-lasting and successful industrial partnerships such as the one with Lamborghini Squadra Corse, on which Roger Dubuis has built a successful narrative that makes purchasing and wearing of one of his watches become an experiential journey.

In today’s collections, the concept of hyper-watchmaking is perfectly expressed by the Excalibur Spider Monobalancier Huracan, a timepiece whose name refers to the collaboration with Lamborghini, recalling that of one of the brand’s successful supercars. A partnership that dates back to 2017 and which, with the Excalibur Spider Monobalancier Huracan, expresses all the hallmarks of the Swiss watchmaker’s technical and aesthetic vision, from the design to every single detail of the movement.

THE NEW EXCALIBUR SPIDER MONOBALANCIER HURACAN STRAPS

This watch’s strong aesthetics is also given by the lugs. The workmanship on each of them is something of a work of art and deserves a special mention. They present the classic tripartite shape typical of Roger Dubuis lugs with the two skeletonised side elements, which serve to attach the interchangeable strap. In addition to functionality, the central element ‘accompanies’ the strap softer around the wrist, enhancing wearability, which is essential in summer.

This is the background to the brand’s extensive research work aimed at extending the versatility of its watches with an unprecedented collection of straps. While the Excalibur Spider Monobalancier Huracan has always been fitted with a bi-material strap with a quick release system, with a black rubber base and Alcantara lining, Roger Dubuis has now developed a new assortment of Rubber Tech rubber straps with a very varied colour palette: red, blue, yellow, orange, white, easily interchangeable with a single click, thanks to the Quick Release System. We experienced both their ease of use and, above all, their versatility; you can adapt the colour of the straps to that of your clothing (or, why not, your mood) and literally have a different timepiece for each. The watch truly changes look depending on the strap one chooses, becoming every time a new accessory.

This is an intelligent choice, a sort of range extension made without really extending the product range, but by working on a key aspect of the watch, which distinguishes it almost as much as the immediately recognisable dial. This does not mean, however, that it will make the Excalibur Spider Monobalancier Huracan lose its exclusive character.

EXCALIBUR SPIDER MONOBALANCIER HURACAN: UNIQUE AESTHETICS

The new straps can, of course, also be used with the reference DBEX0748, protagonist of these pages, with its titanium case and black rubber-coated case band. Alongside it, Roger Dubuis has created two others, one in DLC titanium and another very elegant one in pink gold and titanium. With a diameter of 45 mm and a thickness of 13.3 mm, this watch is a great presence on the wrist thanks to the bezel as well, also made of titanium, which features deep knurling; each of these creates trapezoidal elements with a satin finish, on which the lacquered hour markers stand out. A bold design that extends to the oversized crown with the manufacture’s logo, protected by two sturdy straps.

The part of the Excalibur Spider Monobalancier Huracan in which Roger Dubuis’ creativity is freely expressed is, naturally, the dial. Protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, it is structured on several levels. The upper one exploits the functionality of the hexagonal screws by transforming their heads into hour-markers, rhodium-plated and coated with SuperLuminova; then there is an intermediate level, consisting of the chapter ring on which the Roger Dubuis logo is embedded; finally, the central part, where Roger Dubuis’ design gets closer to the automotive DNA of Lamborghini and its creations.

The titanium elements of the dial recall the air intakes and hexagonal exhausts of the Lamborghini Huracan, whose silhouettes are also evoked by the design of the upper part revealing the single balance wheel (monobalancier), the mechanical heart of the watch. At the bottom, the skeleton architecture allows a view of the RD630 calibre’s two barrels, framing the date window at 6 o’clock, whose characters recall those of the supercar’s speedometer.

THE RD630 CALIBRE: ROGER DUBUIS’ ENGINEERING

The calibre RD630 is amanufactured automatic movement which is a fusion of top-quality Swiss micromechanics and the aesthetic-constructive philosophy of the Italian automobile racing team. While its upper part features a bridge whose shape is reminiscent of the strut bar of the Lamborghini Huracán’s V10 engine, the oscillating weight is modelled on the design of the car’s rims: their 360-degree rotation recalls the Lamborghini Huracán’s wheels in motion. The calibre is skeletonised, with a sandblasted plate and sandblasted or satin-finished bridges. Both elements have a NAC galvanic coating that gives them a uniform, dark, sporty appearance. Thanks to the double barrel, the movement – which works at 28,800 vibrations per hour – gives the watch an attractive 60-hour power reserve.

Just as for the symmetry of the double barrels, which is a further reference to the Huracán collection and the multi-fuel tanks of Lamborghini supercars, the watchmakers at Roger Dubuis have taken an unconventional approach to the architecture of the balance wheel. In fact, it is inclined at a 12-degree angle, a distinctive characteristic of all movements associated with the Lamborghini Squadra Corse unit; this type of configuration allows the balance wheel to more effectively counter the effects of magnetism on the calibre, thereby increasing its performance in terms of precision. Placed at 12 o’clock, like the rev counter in sports cars, its inverted position gives the wearer a better view of the element, so that they can fully enjoy the oscillations of the balance spring.

As always, Roger Dubuis’ manufacturing philosophy leads to creations for a few enthusiasts (the brand likes to call them a ‘tribe’), capable of appreciating every watch for the preciousness of each of its elements and facets. The price of the timepiece – €57,500 – and of the new array of straps – €790 each – is a reminder that owning an Excalibur Spider Monobalancier Huracan is, before being a question of spending capacity, a question of watchmaking culture. Knowing how to appreciate where such a small, precious, exclusive object comes from is not for everyone. Otherwise, it would not be called hyper-watchmaking, it would not be called excellence.

By Davide Passoni