Patek Philippe: Novelties Watches & Wonders 2024

Patek Philippe, on the occasion of the Watches and Wonders 2024, gives further proof of its know-how and unveils no less than eleven novelties. These include: the first “World Time” watch with a time-indexed date, the return of “chain” bracelets in the Golden Ellipse line and various technical-stylistic reinterpretations in the “Travel Time“, “Annual/Perpetual Calendar” lines and the Twenty-4 collection, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. Let’s take a detailed look at each novelty

WORLD TIME REF. 5330G-001 

Introduced as a limited edition on the occasion of the major Patek Philippe “Watch Art” exhibition held in Tokyo in June 2023, Ref. 5330 joins the current collection. In this generation of timepieces, the date display is indexed to the local time and to offer this function, Patek Philippe has developed a new movement, the calibre 240 HU C with automatic winding and 48-hour reserve with an innovative differential system that shows the date on the edge of the dial thanks to the central transparent glass hand ending in a red vane. The new World Time Ref. 5330G-001 in white gold features a 40mm case accompanied by a blue-grey opaline dial with a “carbon” motif and a strap (with a white gold déployant clasp) in denim-printed cowhide that echoes the shades of the dial. The price of the timepiece is € 77,220

GOLDEN ELLIPSE REF. 5738/1R-001  

The Golden Ellipse, launched in 1968, is an icon in the Patek Philippe world. In addition to leather straps, this model was combined, until the early 1980s, with a variety of integrated bracelets, both chain and link. Patek Philippe revives this tradition by revealing the new Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001 with a ‘chain’ style bracelet also in pink gold. The fruit of fifteen years of development, this new bracelet features an engraved clasp with three adjustment notches combined with an exclusive and patented architecture composed of 363 elements (including over 300 individually hand-assembled links). The watch features an ebony black ‘soleil’ dial and pink gold applied hour markers and hands. With its ultra-thin 2.53mm self-winding Calibre 240, this timepiece claims to be the thinnest in Patek Philippe’s current collection. The price is € 60,590

ANNUAL CALENDAR MOON PHASES REF. 5396G-017

The Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G, originally presented in 2006, is now presented in a new white gold version. The blue “soleil” dial is further enhanced by the presence of twelve applied hour markers set with baguette-cut diamonds (0.26 carats). This elegant contrast emphasize the extreme sobriety and readability of the design, with its facetted white gold dauphine hands and slim central seconds hand. The color of the dial is echoed by the polished navy blue alligator strap with its square scales and white gold déployant clasp. The Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G-017 houses the self-winding calibre 26-330 S QA LU 24H with 45h power reserve. The price is €64,030

IN-LINE PERPETUAL CALENDAR REF. 5236P-010

In 2021, Patek Philippe unveiled a new perpetual calendar with indications of the day of the week, date and month within a single large window at 12 o’clock. This was initially offered with a platinum case and a blue ‘soleil’ dial. Patek Philippe revisits this platinum model by giving it a vintage-inspired salmon opaline dial, which is embellished with anthracite-colored white gold facetted baton hour markers and hands. The ultra-flat self-winding Calibre 31-260 PS QL is distinguished by its additional module, which has resulted in the filing of three patents, and a platinum mini-rotor that increases the power reserve. The new in-line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-010 joins the platinum version with a blue shaded black dial in the current collection. The price is € 142,560

RETROGRADE PERPETUAL CALENDAR REF. 5160/500R-001

Officer cases, with their straight lugs and hinged caseback covers, are Patek Philippe’s crowning glory, and this latest example is proof of that. It is based on the version introduced in 2016 in white gold, which in turn was inspired by a piece in the Patek Philippe Museum. The brand skilfully reinterprets this model in a rose gold version with a silvered opaline gold dial featuring white gold Breguet numerals and burnished yellow gold “poire” hands. The 38mm case, engraved entirely by hand, features plant decorations and scrolls that make the pink gold even richer and more elegant. The new retrograde Perpetual Calendar High Craftsmanship Ref. 5160/500R-001 houses the calibre 26-330 S QR and replaces the previous white gold version. The price is € 203,740

CALATRAVA PILOT ALARM TRAVEL TIME REF. 5520RG-001

The Alarm Travel Time, originally introduced in 2019 with its sporty-elegant Pilot style is celebrated in a new “two tone” version with: a 42.2mm case in rose gold and four white gold button shafts. This Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG-001 is also distinguished by its two-tone “soleil” grey and ebony black dial, with applied Arabic numerals and white gold sword hands emphasised by a luminescent coating. This grand complication houses the self-winding AL 30-660 S C FUS calibre, the source of four patents for the alarm, and combines the exclusive Travel Time second time zone display system with a 24-hour alarm mechanism with a hammer striking a classic gong. In the current Patek collection, it joins the previous Ref. 5520P-001 in platinum. The price is € 261,360

AQUANAUT TRAVEL TIME REF. 5269R-001 

In 2021, Patek Philippe welcomed among its Aquanaut models a travel watch equipped with a new quartz movement with a Travel Time function, combined with a practical and discreet crown adjustment system. Today, the brand is presenting it in a new guise, in pink gold without the presence of diamonds. This Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5269R-001 is also distinguished by its blue-grey opaline dial with an embossed “Aquanaut” motif and its matching integrated composite bracelet with a folding clasp. The 38.8 mm diameter case is embellished with alternating polished and satin finishes. The price is € 35,640

AQUANAUT TRAVEL TIME REF. 5164G-001

After steel and pink gold, the Aquanaut Travel Time with automatic movement is offered in a brand new white gold version, combined with a blue-grey opaline dial and an integrated composite strap. The new Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164G-001, with its self-winding 26-330 S C FUS calibre, is distinguished by its easy-to-read and user-friendly second time-zone display system. Simply pressing one of the two pushers on the left side of the case advances or retracts the local time hand (full hand) in one-hour increments without affecting the watch’s accuracy. The hand date display on the auxiliary dial at 6 o’clock is associated with local time. The price is € 63,560

FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH NAUTILUS REF. 5980/60G-001

Launched in 2006, the Nautilus automatic flyback chronograph, Ref. 5980, has been available since 2010 in rose gold or “two tone” steel and rose gold versions. Patek Philippe revisits this sporty and elegant model in a new version in white gold combined with a blue-grey opaline dial featuring rounded indexes and baton hands in white gold with a white luminescent coating. This shade is also found on the two straps that come with the watch, one in blue-grey denim-print calfskin with contrasting white stitching, the second in blue-grey composite material with a textile motif and contrasting white stitching. This new Nautilus Ref. 5980/60G-001 flyback chronograph has a slimmer bezel and a slightly wider dial aperture, which houses the self-winding CH 28-520 C calibre with chronograph indications grouped inside the large mono counter at 6 o’clock. The price is €79,600

AQUANAUT LUCE HAUTE JOAILLERIE REF. 5268/461G-001

Following the launch in the Aquanaut collection of an Annual Calendar in March 2023 and a Haute Joaillerie Minute Repeater in November 2023, Patek Philippe continues the development of the line with a new Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5268/461G-001 in white gold set with diamonds and blue sapphires using the serti neige and baguette setting technique. The dial setting forming a damier recalls the emblematic motif of the Aquanaut collection. The rounded octagonal bezel is embellished with baguette-cut sapphires forming a subtle blue to dark blue hue. The case houses the self-winding Calibre 26-330 S visible through the sapphire case back. The price is € 237,600

TWENTY-4 REF. 4910/1201R-010

The Twenty-4, launched in 1999 with a steel and diamond case, is the first Patek Philippe collection exclusively designed for women. This line, initially built around the “bracelet” style quartz model, was expanded in 2018 with a new Twenty-4 model with a round case. To celebrate these 25 years of success for women, Patek Philippe presents a new version of the ‘bracelet’ model in pink gold. The dial of this Twenty-4 Ref. 4910/1201R-010 is embossed with a concentric wave motif that is then covered with thin layers of translucent lacquer, first violet then colorless, creating delicate plays of light and depth. The price is € 48,000

THE NEW TECHNICAL STANDARDS AND WARRANTY EXTENSION

The Watches and Wonders 2024 show is also an opportunity for Patek Philippe to announce an update on three aspects: precision and water-resistance criteria and the extension of the international warranty.

All caliber with a diameter of 20 mm or more (whether they are equipped with a Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar® or a Breguet-type balance spring), Patek informs us, will respect a strict tolerance interval of [-1; +2] seconds/24 hours, and in the interests of homogeneity, the brand has established the introduction of a new unified water-resistance standard of 30 meters for all water-resistant certified watches. Finally, for all new watches sold after 1 May 2024, the warranty period will be extended from two to five years from the date of purchase.

DISCONTIUED MODELS

The new year historically marks the moment when certain references officially leave the catalogue. For Patek, this moment coincided with the first day of February and among the ‘discontinued’ models we find:

• Aquanaut Travel Time, ref. 5164a
• Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie ref. 5062/450R
• Nautilus Chronograph Date ref. 5980/1R
• Nautilus Moon Phase in pink and white gold, ref. 5712R and ref. 5712G
• Grand Complications Engraved Retrograde Perpetual Calendar ref. 5160G
• Annual Calendar and Moon Phases in rose and white gold ref. 5396G and ref. 5396R
• World Time ref. 5230P
• Pilots Travel-Time in rose and white gold ref. 7234R and ref. 7234G

By Luca Barone