Patek Philippe: Grand Complications Ref.5208R

The reference 5208 is the only Patek Philippe “triple complication” that combines a minute repeater, a chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays. Additionally it is one of the rare ultracomplicated watches with a self-winding movement.

As a sibling to the platinum model with a charcoal sunburst dial “launched in 2011”, Patek Philippe is now presenting the watch in a 42 mm rose-gold version with an ebony black sunburst dial featuring applied hour markers and Dauphine hands in rose gold. The round three-part case (bezel, caseband, back) between two screws clamps is a design that allows generous skeletonization of the lugs.

The minute repeater tells the time with two classic gongs that generate crystal-clear sounds as soon as the slide in the left-hand case flank is actuated. Endowed with a column wheel and a horizontal clutch, this model features a monopusher chronograph: a single pusher at 2 o’clock consecutively controls the start, stop, and reset functions. Excellent legibility is assured by the chronograph displays (large chronograph hand, 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock) with white hands that contrast well against the hour, minute, and subsidiary seconds indications. Arranged along an arc at the top of the dial, the aperture displays of the perpetual calendar switch simultaneously and instantaneously at midnight, thanks to an elaborate mechanism.

The architecture and finissage of the 719-part caliber R CH 27 PS QI movement can be admired through a sapphire-crystal case back. The watch is delivered with an additional interchangeable solid back in rose gold.

The new Ref. 5208R-001 is combined with a matte black hand-stitched alligator strap with square scales. It is secured with a rose-gold fold-over clasp. This watch replaces the predecessor model in platinum.