Patek Philippe: Aquanaut 5168G 20th Anniversary & Travel Time 5650 Advanced Research

To commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Aquanaut series, Patek Philippe has planned several premieres. The new Ref. 5168G is the first men’s Aquanaut wristwatch in 18K white gold. With its somewhat warmer hue, it clearly sets itself apart from stainless steel. But as with the other Aquanaut models, the design of the gently rounded octagonal bezel with vertically satin-finished flats and chamfered polished flanks remains unchanged. Moreover, with a diameter of 42 millimeters, it is the largest model in this line. The format pays tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus of the same size that was nicknamed “Jumbo” and today is still referred to by that name among collectors. The night blue hue of the dial and the strap is new as well. Additionally, the night blue color of the dial gradates from bright in the center to black toward the outside as was the case with the Ref. 5164 Aquanaut Travel Time in rose gold. With its finely embossed checkerboard pattern, it provides the ideal backdrop for the applied Arabic numerals in white gold. Thanks to the Superluminova coating, they are readily visible in the dark. Another new facet of the Ref. 5168G: the luminous five-minute markers are set by hand appliques in 18K white gold. Hovering above the dial, sharp-tipped luminous baton hands for the hours and minutes are paired with a slender, counterbalanced and white-laquered parfil seconds hand in bronze.

An 18K white-gold case accommodates the self-winding caliber 324 S C movement. Merely 3.3 millimeters in height, the movement is so flat that even with its elaborate seals and gaskets, the complete watch is still only 8.25 millimeters thick overall. Nonetheless, it is a veritable time machine. With its heavy central rotor in 21K gold, it extracts and stores energy from every movement of the wrist and features a rate accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds per day as specified by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. The finissage of the movement, visible through the sapphire-crystal case back, is truly fascinating. The bridges are decorated with strictly parallel Geneva striping, have countersunk and polished holes for the jewels and the screws with polished circumferences and slots. They also feature gold-filled engravings, as well as round-chamfered and polished edges that emphasize the contours of the individual bridges. Exquisite perlage decorates the center of the gold rotor around its ball bearing. Circular graining underscores the form and function of the rotor. It is also endowed with a large engraved Calatrava cross, a registered Patek Philippe trademark element. An engraved Calatrava cross also graces the 18K white-gold fold-over clasp. It reliably secures the night blue composite strap embossed with the typical Aquanaut pattern. It is superbly comfortable, extremely tear and abrasion-resistant, and insensitive to salt water and UV radiation.

BUT THERE’S MORE TO THE AQUANAUT