Louis Vuitton: Escale Time Only
12 June 2024On the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the Escale at Louis Vuitton, the Maison reveals four new timepieces inspired by the Collections of Gaston-Louis Vuitton, two in rose gold with textured dials and two in platinum and precious stones.
Louis Vuitton’s historic and unparalleled savoir-faire in trunkmaking is the anchor point of the new Escale. As in previous years’ Escale models, the lugs make continuous allusion to the iconic trunks of the Maison, resembling the angled form and riveted exterior of the brass brackets and corners that reinforce the Louis Vuitton trunks.
These brass reinforcements are echoed on the dial, which has been completely redesigned to create new and stronger affinities between Escale and the Maison’s most famous creations. Angled and riveted markers in polished gold are hand applied at each quarter, holding together the central dial and outer minuterie. The minuterie itself is punctuated with gold studs to evoke the nails of the lozine that runs along the exterior of a Louis Vuitton trunk. A brushed finish and subtle concave camber are the final touches that give the minuterie exceptional visual texture and readability.
Accommodating this dial, exceptionally rich in detail and complexity, is no easy task. The tip of the seconds hand on all the Escale models is shaped to follow the curve of the dial allowing the seconds to be read with great precision. This precision is supported by the chronometer-certified cal. LFT023, whose 50-hour power reserve is assured by energy-efficient solutions such as crafting the seconds hand in titanium rather than gold. Special tools were developed to overcome the high elasticity of titanium without marking its surface, resulting in a seconds hand that is perfectly curved, which is then treated with a PVD colour process to match the gold hour and minute hands.
A new dial texture, seen in the rose-gold models, is a direct reference to the finely grained surface of the Louis Vuitton Monogram canvas. Custom dial stamps were developed and refined over several material essays in order to perfectly convey the suppleness and tactility of canvas on a metal dial.
The rose-gold Escale with silvery dial comes on a calf-leather strap that draws undiluted inspiration from Louis Vuitton’s leather goods expertise. Inspired by Nomade leather, a natural leather originally introduced in 1999, the strap will gain a beautiful patina over time while losing none of its comfort. Fine yellow stitching, reminiscent of classic Louis Vuitton leather goods, outlines the shared artery of craftsmanship and hand-worked detail that animates all the creations of the Maison. In the platinum versions of the new Escale, lapidary work and gem-setting elevate the collection with rare materials and techniques. (Price €.29,000)
In the platinum version of the new Escale, the processing of the stones and the setting of the gems elevate the Collection above all others in terms of materials and manufacturing techniques. One model features a dial of meteorite, selected to highlight the contrasting textures and natural mineral tones of this otherworldly material. Another model juxtaposes the near-fluid shine of an onyx dial with the geometric sparkle of a bezel and case set with baguette-cut diamonds. Both models come with white-gold hands and markers. (Price €.39,000 and €.155,000 ca.)
Each new Escale timepiece comes with an engraved serial number on a slim cartouche in contrasting gold riveted to the periphery of the transparent caseback, an allusion to the engraved serial number plates that identify each Louis Vuitton trunk. When the watch is worn, the engraving rests directly on the wrist, a sensory link between the wearer and the patrimony of artisanal craftsmanship at Louis Vuitton.
Every aspect of the new Escale has been thought out in detail, from the play of case finishes to the curve of the sapphire crystal. An octagonal crown is topped with a dome, echoing the shape of a trunk rivet, and emblazoned with the Louis Vuitton Monogram. Fluted on alternating sides to facilitate winding and setting, the crown is seamlessly set against a satin-brushed case middle, which then gives way to hand-polished and brushed lugs with decorative rivets. Each of these components has been conceived with contrasting finishes relative to its adjacent elements, bestowing a deliberate yet organic grace to the watch as a whole.
Inside the 39 mm case, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, we find the LFTO23 caliber, the first proprietary automatic three-hand movement designed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in conjunction with Le Cercle des Horlogers.Its contemporary aesthetic emphasises the modernity of the Maison’s watchmaking vision, whilst still incorporating references to in-house patrimony with the mainspring barrel and 22K rose-gold micro-rotor, which are decorated with the motifs of Louis Vuitton.
Timekeeping performance is an essential hallmark of the cal. LFT023, with each example of this movement certified by the Geneva Observatory as a high-precision Swiss chronometer.