A style icon: IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Obsidian

Among the latest innovations at Watches & Wonders 2024, IWC re-proposed its timeless Portugieser Automatic 42 in an even more contemporary key. A slimmer case, arched sapphire crystal (both dial side and back) and four exclusive colours: Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian and Silver Moon that conceptually and visually reflect the cyclical nature of time (in the alternation between day and night).

BIRTH OF AN ICON

In the late 1930s, IWC received a visit from two Portuguese traders, Rodrigues and Antonio Teixeira, who were looking for a solution for a wristwatch that could match the precision of marine chronometers. It was as a result of this request that the IWC Portugieser reference 325 was born in 1939, an “oversized” (by the standards of the time) wristwatch that housed the 74 and 98 calibre, both savonnette pocket watch movements. The ultra-thin IWC 74 calibre, was around 38mm in diameter and 4.4mm thick, while the IWC 98, in production from 1936 until 1966, was thinner than its predecessor and used a Breguet balance spring. The design of the Portugieser collection featured a steel 42mm case with curved lugs, a smooth tapered bezel, twelve arabic numerals (gold-plated or radium), leaf hands, a “chemin de fer” type minute track and small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. These elements included the use of a special crown that nostalgically recalled the “onion” crowns of pocket watches.

The first watches with the reference 325 were destined for the Eastern European market, with a focus on the Ukraine. Three years later, in 1942, IWC made its first shipment to the country that gave them their name and, more generally, to all the other European countries, many of which were involved in the Second World War. This moment in history made it difficult for the Portuguese to enter the market, as all the Swiss watchmakers were restricting production and questioning what future watchmaking might have in the face of European distribution. The year 1993 marked the rebirth of the Portuguese project and, to mark the brand’s 125th anniversary, IWC produced a limited series. This series, better known as reference 5541, comprised 1,750 watches of which: 1,000 in steel, 500 in pink gold and 250 in platinum all fitted with a sapphire-glass back showing the 9828 calibre. 

Elegant and essential, the Schaffhausen icon is still a milestone in watchmaking history and a continuum of research, experimentation and technical innovations.

A REDISCOVERED CONTINUITY: THE REFERENCE IW5017

Over the years, the Portugieser, preserving its distinctiveness and recognisability, has been declined in many prestigious variations and complications including: time only, chronograph, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, tourbillon and eternal calendar. Among these, we take a closer look at one reference in particular: The IW5017 Portugieser Automatic 42.

With the new Portugieser Automatic 42 (Ref. IW5017), IWC Schaffhausen preserves and reinterprets the DNA of the original Portugieser Automatic (Ref. IW50001) from 2000 in a contemporary key, presenting a slimmer case (in profiles) with a diameter of 42.4 mm, a thickness of 13 mm and an incredibly balanced dial design with a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock.

The reference is available in a collection comprising six watches: two gold versions with 18-carat white gold and 5N 18-carat gold cases with dials respectively Horizon Blue (Ref. IW501708) and Obsidian (Ref. IW501707) and four steel versions with dials Dune (Ref. IW501705), Silver Moon (Ref. IW501701 and Ref. IW501702) and Deep Blue (Ref. IW501704).

The new Portugieser Automatic 42 Obsidian sports a brilliant, deep black dial achieved by the skilfully executed “soleil” finish, the result of applying no less than 15 layers of ground and polished transparent lacquer. The two counters milled into both the brass base and the lacquer layer together with the successive printing and hand-application of both the hour markers and arabic numerals give the dial an incredible sense of three-dimensionality. In keeping the DNA of the first Portugieser, Ref. 325 of 1939, we find the characteristic “chemin de fer” minute track, the gold leaf hands and the gold applied arabic numerals and indices. The arched-edge sapphire glass gives the watch additional balance, lightness and elegance and also allows the dial and the IWC-manufactured movement (on the case back) to be admired at their best.

“The skilful, correct and magnificent interplay” (quoting the well-known passage by architect Le Corbusier) between the gold case and the Obsidian dial conceptually invites us to reflect on the cyclical nature of time, in the alternation of day and night, light and shadow.

THE IN-HOUSE CALIBRE IWC 52011

The new Portugieser Automatic 42 houses the new IWC-manufactured 52011 movement. This calibre is based on the automatic movement of the 52000 family (over 38 mm in diameter) and incorporates the Pellaton winding system made of zirconium oxide ceramic.

Exploiting the rotor’s movements in both directions, it accumulates a seven-day power reserve (approximately 168 hours) in two sequential barrels. The raceless balance with Breguet hairspring oscillates at a frequency of 4 hertz (28,800 vibrations per hour), guaranteeing a high level of precision. While the sapphire-glass back and skeletonised rotor (with an 18-carat gold medallion with the “Probus Scafusia” engraving) allow one to admire the movement with its Côtes de Genève decoration and perlage.

CONCLUSION AND PRICE

The Dune (Ref. IW501705) and Silver Moon (Ref. IW501701 and Ref. IW501702) steel versions of the Portugieser Automatic 42 are equipped with a calfskin and alligator leather strap (22 mm width) with a stainless steel folding clasp and are available at a price of € 14,000. 

Meanwhile, the Horizon Blue and Obsidian versions of the Portugieser Automatic 42 in white gold and 5N 18-carat gold, respectively, are fitted with a 22mm width strap in calfskin (in the Horizon Blue dial reference) and alligator (in the Obsidian dial reference) from the Italian shoe manufacturer Santoni with a matching folding clasp in white gold/5N 18-carat gold. Prices are € 28,000 (Ref. IW501708) and € 27,000 (Ref. IW501707) 

All of the new Portugieser Automatic references are in line with IWC’s collection offerings and we are certain that these versions with unprecedented dials will win over a large number of enthusiasts and collectors!

By Luca Barone