Be transparent: Vis à vis with Antonio Terranova co-founder and designer of Cvstos

He welcomes us to the C-Lounge, Cvstos is a large multifunctional space in the heart of Saint Gervais district, the cradle of watchmaking in Geneva. Antonio Terranova is a veteran of Swiss watchmaking and, today, the designer and co-founder of the brand. The space houses the manufacturing workshops, offices, boutiques and the events’ space of the brand. They have transparent windows on the street, a clear sign of the brand’s philosophy: be transparent in every way, from product to communication to dialogue with the customer – even at the cost of being branded as “outsiders.” Because in the end, says Terranova, “who cares”?

Can you tell us a bit about yourself: Who is Antonio Terranova?

My education is in micromechanical engineering, at the University of La Chaux de Fonds. I took my first steps into the world of watchmaking in late 1992 at the Richemont Group, where I was responsible for some products for Piaget and Cartier brands. In 1997 I moved to Tag Heuer, where I was involved in the research and development of new products and in particular research in materials, my passion. I then started working as a consultant in watchmaking and design for Richard Mille between 1998-2002. Thanks to a consulting project for the Franck Muller Group I met Mr. Sirmakes and eventually in late 2003, his son Sassoon. Sassoon has always believed in my personal project, and together we decided to give life to Cvstos. The brand was born in February 2005 and in April of the same year we organized the first presentation in Geneva.

How did you come up with the idea of Cvstos?

Our philosophy is to be more “tailors” than designers: we satisfy the customer. For me in luxury, traditional marketing does not work. Luxury is not mass production and luxury customers are not interested in buying a brand, but a product. Our customers already have everything. They look for a unique product, but don’t want to spend crazy sums. Our product is not super exclusive, but rather “confidential”. The customer will fall in love wearing it and will create curiosity in his circle of friends. Of course, we do create more commercial special editions such as those with Dani Pedrosa and Gérard Depardieu. Let’s say Cvstos creates products listening to others, with a neutral look.

How do you see the brand in 10 years?

12 years ago, before launching Cvstos, we set the goal of producing five thousand watches per year after 10 years. Today, we produce about two thousand. The way we handle the production follows customer requests and now the market is complicated. However, we are totally independent at all levels, including financial support, and this gives us security. Our trump card is to be creative, always look for new markets, products and collaborations.

Yours is often considered as an “outsider” label, provocative. In three adjectives, how would you define Cvstos?

I cite four words: efficiency, performance, elegance, preciousness. We combine these values in order to create. Cvstos means guardian in Latin, we are the guardians of these values. True, we are sometimes perceived as not “politically correct” but … who cares?

What is for you the luxury?

Independence, not the thickness of your wallet.

What distinguishes a timepiece of “haute horlogerie” from a watch?

For me it means high watchmaking craftsmanship, creating and decorating everything in house. We work mostly in the price range between 10 and 20 thousand francs, but with the same philosophy of Haute Horlogerie. Our watches are transparent, so everything must be perfect. We re-work all components we receive from external suppliers, even in the basic models. Our philosophy is: “what you see is what you buy”! Transparency is a value for us. Ours is probably the only atelier of a watchmaking brand without secrets, with windows on the street.

What is your positioning?

Our entry price is 9,200 chf for models for men and 6,500 chf or women. The most expensive complication is the minute repeater in platinum, priced at 350 thousand chf. The best sellers are in the range between 10 and 20 thousand francs. Now we are developing the range between 20 and 40 thousand chf, where there is a strong demand from our customers. Our challenge is to create products with greater added value, and to grow while always remaining independent.

What are the three models you are most proud of?

The first is the Tourbillon Yachting Club, nautical interpretation of the tourbillon, wearable every day thanks to an anti-shock system and waterproof to 100 meters. The second is the Tourbillon Minute Repeater Sport (RMTS – Repetition Minutes Tourbillon Sport), in this case 100 meters waterproof, shockproof and with a sound audible at the wrist. The third, created in 2010 with Pierre and Jean Pierre Michel Golay is the CTRS Rattrapante Chronograph Tourbillon Sport, for which we have filed 4 patents. This was the first split-seconds chronograph with flying tourbillon on the market, and the first chronometer to be precise during six days with no loss of amplitude. We wanted to create a real wrist chronograph, the reading of the time was secondary.  The challenge was also in the price, as we proposed it in just 5 pieces priced at 250 thousand francs, not 1 million francs as many competitors would have done.

What is the model you like most?

The Sea Liner GMT, for its extraordinary ease of use although it is a very complex watch. The reading of the date, day or night and the second time zone is possible just by adjusting the crown.

How important is Italy as a market for watches?

Italy is really important for us. In 2010, post-crisis, our partners in the Italian market had ceased to operate, and so the market has been on stand-by until this year. 2016 is the year of rebirth. We should close the year  with five stores in Italy; in Milan, Portofino, Parma, Venice and Brescia.

How would you describe the Italian customer?

Our customers generally are very demanding, they want a special product, not mainstream. They are more avant-garde than the others, because they aren’t conformists. The requests are the same in all countries, while the tastes are different. For example, in Italy many like  modern watches but with a touch of classiness, perhaps with gold case and brown alligator strap, or a particular detail such as a dedication engraved in a part of the movement.

What do you think of social networks as a communication tool?

We must value new media and new opinion leaders. Social networks are very fast vehicles and therefore they provide useful information which can broaden the potential audience.

By Valeria Garavaglia