H. Moser & Cie: Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
2 October 2024With the new Pioneer Retrograde Seconds, H. Moser & Cie. continues its quest for innovation by offering a visual, playful complication that integrates perfectly with the collection’s sporty design.
The Pioneer Retrograde Seconds beats to the rhythm of its 30-second retrograde mechanism, a fascinating complication positioned at 6 o’clock on the dial. Every 30 seconds, the hand flashes back to its starting position, adding a unique burst of choreographed animation. With its design inspired by measuring instruments and speedometers, this retrograde complication sits perfectly with the sporty aesthetic of the Pioneer collection, and is water-resistant to 120 metres.
H. Moser & Cie. remains true to its minimalist philosophy by applying its logo in transparent lacquer to the Midnight Blue fumé dial, like a secret signature. This discreet approach serves to showcase the essence of the complication: the retrograde mechanism – displayed on the dial so its operation can be admired – which has a double snail cam that enables the seconds hand to complete its journey in 30 seconds. The ingenuity of the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds lies in the transparency of its mechanism, designed to be both technical and playful. At the end of each cycle, the snail, which is in permanent contact with the sector or finger, releases the energy accumulated and stored by a hairspring located under the seconds hand axis, with a stud holder mounted on the mainplate. The rack, which is also visible under the retrograde seconds bridge, positions the hand precisely on its path and releases the accumulated energy all at once, while keeping the mechanism under control.
The aesthetics of the retrograde seconds silver-moulded skeletonised bridge are reminiscent of H. Moser & Cie’s emblematic tourbillon bridge. A two-tone disc beneath the snail indicates whether the watch is in the first or second 30-second period of the cycle, adding an extra touch of dynamism and visual appeal to the whole.
At the heart of the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the HMC 250 automatic winding movement. Based on the HMC 201 basic calibre developed by H. Moser & Cie, it is coupled to a module designed by its partner Agenhor SA, which has made retrograde mechanisms one of its specialities. It is an ingenious combination for a model that is relevant, efficient and striking. It embodies H. Moser & Cie.’s desire to showcase an innovative watchmaking complication, while retaining the brand’s characteristic elegance and minimalism. (Price CHF 19,900)