Czapek: Antarctique Tourbillon

Czapek & Cie introduces the Antarctique Tourbillon, driven by the new in-house Calibre 9 with a flying tourbillon regulator. The watch features a dramatic new guilloché pattern on the dial – the ‘Singularité’, and a striking architecture. This launch marks the beginning of the 10^th anniversary year since the revival of Czapek & Cie, which coincides with the 180^th anniversary of the watchmaking Maison.

“Our collectors are always asking us ‘what’s next?’ with the Antarctique,” explains Czapek CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel. “After the Rattrapante, we decided to take a perhaps unexpected direction: creating a new and sophisticated expression of a two-century-old regulator: the tourbillon. Our starting point was, as always, to play with the clash between legacy and avant-gardism and this new in-house tourbillon calibre is the outcome.”

Taking advantage of the form of the new tourbillon, Czapek has introduced a daring movement architecture with slender bridges revealing the beauty of the underlying mechanics and coupled it with a dial that harnesses classical métiers d’art in a new and contemporary ‘vortex-style’ guilloché design.

THE NEW IN-HOUSE CALIBRE 9

Reflecting Czapek’s unwavering pursuit of Beauty, the purity of the mechanism became the main design driver for the new in-house movement, Czapek Calibre 9. The fundamental principle was that that the three key elements – tourbillon, gear train and barrel – should be revealed on the dial side, perfectly aligned on the vertical axis and appearing as airy and light as possible. The open-worked flying tourbillon appears to hover between the main plate and dial, directly connected to the gear train, which floats in the centre of the dial beneath an extremely long and finely curved minutes bridge. The barrel dominates the upper section of the dial, floating in an aperture beneath an open-worked bridge.

Calibre 9 is the first Czapek calibre not only designed, conceived and constructed in-house but also machined mostly in-house. However, as Xavier de Roquemaurel points out, this does not signify a wish for full vertical integration. Emphasising that Czapek will always defend the principle of établissage, he explains: “We want freedom – hence the capacity to produce elements in-house. But we don’t want to make everything ourselves; for us, freedom also means the ability to choose and collaborate with the best specialist partners in any given area. That is what enables us to maintain agility and independence.” He also points out the invaluable sense of ‘family’ among the Maison’s regular partners. “These values are deeply embedded in the philosophy underlying our 10^thanniversary celebration and our future,” he says.

THE SINGULARITÉ MOTIVE

To amplify the beauty of the mechanics, Czapek called on Metalem, with whom Czapek has been collaborating since the beginning, to develop a new, trompe l’oeil guilloché design. The result is a dramatic vortex effect, giving the impression of infinite depth. Czapek has named the new pattern Singularité – from the astronomical term singularity, meaning those places in the universe where the standard laws of physics break down, making space and time infinite and undifferentiated – best exemplified by black holes.

The pattern may look deceptively simple but is very difficult to execute: unlike a classical guilloché pattern, in which the guillocheur cuts lines at different angles that always start from a single point, in Singularité, the starting point moves with each passage of the lathe. Enhancing the purity of the mechanical structure and the infinity effect of the guilloché, the hour markers are not set on the dial but are part of the flange. The bridges – including the soaring curve of the gear train bridge – are integrated to the main plate through the guilloché dial plate.

Since its very beginning, Czapek has always liked to offer collectors a certain freedom of personalization, so that they can wear a watch that’s just like them. That’s why,
the new Antarctique Tourbillon will be offered in a choice of three dial colours: Glacier Blue, Photon Sphere (a 5N gold hue) and the mythical grey Secret Alloy, a limited-edition of 50 pieces.

SIMILAR BUT DIFFERENT

The 40,5mm stell case has been redesigned to echo the curvilinear aesthetic of the mechanism and dial. Taking the curved glass box principle of the Antarctique Rattrapante as the starting point, the front and back sapphire crystals have been subtly raised. On the reverse side, this creates the impression that there is no bezel and, indeed, the engravings that would normally appear on a caseback bezel are done inside the crystal by metallisation – executed in mirror style so as to read ‘true’ from the outside.

To amplify the trompe l’oeil effect and create the impression that it is floating in the air, the surface of the gold winding rotor is also convex. Moreover, Michèle Rothen, Czapek’s cherished independent master engraver, hand-engraved it with a black-hole-inspired pattern similar to the guilloché Singularité.

The Antarctique Tourbillon will be offered with the same stainless-steel bracelet as other models in the collection, with a micro-adjustment, a quick-change system and a second rubber strap included. (Price CHF 63,000 + TAX)