Audemars Piguet: [RE]Master02 Selfwinding
3 June 2024Audemars Piguet presents the [RE]Master02 Selfwinding, a tribute to an asymmetrical watch created by the Manufacture in 1960 (Model 5159BA). Following in the footsteps of [RE]Master01, launched in 2020 to reinterpret a chronograph from 1943, this new limited edition of 250 pieces features an asymmetrical 41 mm rectangular case in the new 18-carat sand gold alloy, whose tone oscillates between white and pink gold. [RE]Master02 is enriched by a “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” parted dial, divided into twelve different triangles decorated with a linear satin finish that create unique effects of light and texture when assembled. Combining vintage aesthetic with cutting-edge performance, this new reference is equipped with the Calibre 7129, an hour and minute movement. With this new model, [RE]Master establishes itself as a collection in its own right, continuing to offer contemporary interpretations of timepieces that defined their era.
A TRIBUTE TO BRUTALISM
Since 1875, Audemars Piguet has followed its own path, combining watchmaking tradition with cutting- edge technology and pioneering new materials and designs. Over the years, the Manufacture has used a wide variety of materials, colours and case forms, ranging from traditional geometries such as the circle, square and rectangle, to more unexpected trapezoidal or octagonal shapes. This boundless creativity reflects the free spirit that Audemars Piguet has preserved and nurtured for generations.
Like the remastering of music recordings, the [RE]Master collection, launched in 2020, creatively reinterprets the aesthetic codes of some of the Manufacture’s rarest timepieces, representative of their respective eras.
In the 1960s, Audemars Piguet produced several models inspired by the Brutalist current, with angular geometric shapes devoid of ornamentation. It was also the golden age of asymmetrical watches for the Manufacture, with more than 30 models created between 1959 and 1963, most of which were produced in less than ten pieces. The 5159BA Model, launched in 1960 and produced in seven units, one of which is on display today at the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet, belongs to this generation of watches, with its asymmetrical 27,5mm rectangular case in 18-carat yellow gold and a dial that breaks with the codes of classic watchmaking.
Today, the [RE]Master collection expands with a new 41 mm reference in sand gold, combining contemporary watchmaking with historic design.
A NEW GOLD ALLOY
[RE]Master02 features a case crafted in sand gold, a new 18-carat gold alloy whose shades vary between white and pink gold depending on the light and the movement of the wrist. Launched earlier this year on a Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked reference, this new material, which takes its name from sand dunes, is composed of gold, copper and palladium for a warm appearance.
The asymmetrical case creates a strong visual impact with its many facets. While its rectangular shape is accentuated by sharp corners and extended by integrated lugs, the case also follows the slope of the sapphire crystal at 3 o’clock. Its surface has been entirely brushed with a satin finish for a matt, “raw” look that contrasts with the polished contours of the dial. The satin finish of the sand gold required skill and dexterity to ensure that the geometric edges and corners of the case retained their sharpness.
The caseback, also crafted in sand gold, is engraved with “Limited Edition” and harmoniously echoes the dedicated asymmetrical oscillating weight in matching tones.
A PARTED DIAL
The dial of [RE]Master02 combines different geometric forms such as the rectangle and the triangle. The “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” dial, obtained by Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD), is made up of twelve triangles of different sizes and shapes, separated by galvanised sand-gold-toned partitions that meet at the centre. Each individually machined brass triangle is given a linear satin finish before being placed on a brass plate using minuscule legs. Once meticulously assembled by skilled craftspeople, all the parts create a visual effect that plays with the light and brings the dial to life.
To sit in harmony with the case and the diagonal lines of the dial, the hour and minute hands are crafted in 18-carat sand gold, as is the “Audemars Piguet” signature at 3 o’clock, obtained by galvanic growth. Both the hour-makers and the date indication have been omitted to give full expression to the geometric shapes and linear satin finish. Reading the time is facilitated by the diagonals that cross the dial.
The asymmetry of the case is accentuated by the sapphire crystal, which has a 15.8° bevel for greater visual impact. Two years of research and development went into the design of this bevelled crystal to guarantee water-resistance and meet Audemars Piguet’s quality requirements.
For aesthetic coherence, [RE]Master02 is mounted on an alligator leather strap in contrasting shades of blue that match the tone of the dial. Its elegant matt finish enhances the play of light.
THE EXTRA-THIN CALIBRE 7129
[RE]Master02 houses the Calibre 7129, an extra-thin hour and minute movement without date indication that is based on the Calibre 7121, launched in 2022 on Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin models. This 2.8mm- thick movement produces more energy thanks to its new construction and its larger barrel, enabling the mechanism to achieve greater precision over a longer period of time. The oscillating weight, mounted on ball bearings, is equipped with two reversers to ensure bidirectional winding. In addition, inertia blocks have been inserted into the thickness of the balance wheel to prevent aerodynamic friction from slowing it down.
In keeping with the Haute Horlogerie tradition, the Calibre 7129 features refined decorations such as Côtes de Genève, circular satin, snailing, sunray brushing, circular graining and polished angles, all of which can be admired through the sapphire caseback. The latter also reveals the dedicated 22-carat gold oscillating weight, whose sand gold tone subtly echoes the colour of the case. (Price CHF 38,000 + Tax)