A. Lange & Söhne: Langematik Perpetual Honeygold

During the last SIHH in Geneva, A. Lange & Söhne presented the Langematik Perpetual Honeygold, a 100-watch limited special edition in honey gold. Proprietary to Lange, this material is more resistant than other gold alloys. The bezel and the prominent strap lugs are polished to create a mirror effect while the middle segment of the contoured case is finished with straight graining. Despite its complexity, the 38.5 mm wide watch is merely 10.2 mm high.

The face of the solid-silver argenté dial contrasts highly with the luminous hands as well as the applied Roman numerals in honey gold. The embossed circle with the applied numerals enhances the three-dimensional effect of the dial. A dark brown alligator leather strap with a honey-gold buckle rounds out the balanced overall design.

The perpetual calendar of the Langematik Perpetual takes the different durations of the months as well as all leap years into account. Once the watch is correctly set, a manual adjustment of the date display at 12 o’clock can wait until the year 2100. This is a secular year and, as one of the exceptions to the Gregorian calendar, does not include a 29th day in February. The display for the day of the week and the day/night indicator are presented in a subdial at 9 o’clock. A second one at 3 o’clock shows the month and, slightly below that, the leap-year indicator. A third subdial at 6 o’clock shows the small seconds and the moon-phase display. It, too, reflects extended periods of time. A correction by one day is only needed every 122.6 years. All calendar displays can be advanced individually or collectively with a recessed main button at 10 o’clock.

When the Langematik Perpetual was introduced in 2001, it was the world’s firstself- winding wristwatch that combined an outsize-date display and a perpetual calendar. Itsself-winding L922.1 SAX-0-MAT movement features the ZERO-RESET mechanism which was patented in 2000. When the crown is pulled out, this stops the balance and advances the seconds hand to the zero position, which simplifies time setting. The bidirectionally winding rotor in 21-carat gold with an outer platinum centrifugal mass accumulates the maximum power reserve of 46 hours after only a short time on the wrist. The rotor is integrated in the Lange-style three-quarter plate architecture of the movement. As a result, the form of the watch is very slender. The escapement, with the manually engraved balance cock and the classic whiplash precision index adjuster, is fully visible. The sapphire-crystal caseback exposes all of the artisanally flawless details of the movement, which is assembled twice and precisely adjusted in five positions. (Price €.87.100)