Chronomètre Souverain Havana: a lesson in aesthetics from F.P. Journe

When one thinks of the timepieces created by François-Paul Journe, the most refined complications, those of the highest horology, come to mind. However, the Marseille master’s brand also includes in its collections some models that are a tribute to essentiality. In this sense, the champion is probably the Chronomètre Souverain. If a piece such as the Tourbillon Souverain is the most F.P. Journe of them all, on the other hand, the Chronomètre Souverain embodies unequalled purity. Something that goes to the roots of horological authenticity, focusing only on what counts: the precision of chronometric performance. If in its more classic versions the Chronomètre Souverain looks great with formal attire, the Havana dial version’s presence on the wrist feels way more pronounced. All without losing any of the essence and perfection of the Chronomètre Souverain.

CHRONOMÈTRE SOUVERAIN: MECHANICAL ART SINCE 2005

The Chronomètre Souverain by F.P. Journe was born in 2005 – when it won the Best Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – and has hardly changed since its introduction into the collection. If we exclude the famous and highly sought-after Chronomètre Bleu, with which it shares the same basic movement, the Chronomètre Souverain is the purest expression of François-Paul Journe‘s horological savoir-faire. A watch without the complications mentioned above – from the remontoire d’égalité to the tourbillon, from the complete calendar to the minute repeater. The Chronomètre Souverain is just a ‘simple’ hand-wound watch with a power reserve display on the dial. ‘Simple’, of course, by the standards to which François-Paul Journe has accustomed us. 

Since its introduction, the Chronomètre Souverain has been offered in different versions. In the permanent collection, there are references with classic silver guilloché dials, but also models with gold dials and embossed numerals. Then there are several special references; to name but a few, think of the boutique edition with a mother-of-pearl or black dial, the model with a green dial, the model for the Tokyo boutique or the steel reference with a 38 mm case, part of a set of five watches. All examples of how the Chronomètre Souverain, despite its apparent simplicity (or, rather, perhaps because of it…) is a very versatile watch, especially when it comes to colour matching. 

More specifically, the Havana dial has a modern and beautiful appeal. Remember that this is not a shade reserved for the Chronomètre Souverain, as it has already been proposed in the Octa collection, for example in the Automatique Lune or the Automatique Reserve. When this colour is paired with the 6N gold case, it takes on a very elegant appearance and emanates a completely different light then when paired with platinum, even if it lacks the contrast between warm and cold tones that some big brands are so fond of.

THE CASE AND DIAL

The case of the Chronomètre Souverain, like most of the watches in the collection, measures 40 mm in diameter and, in addition to 6N gold, also exists in 950 platinum. The diameter is perfect, especially when considered with the 8 mm thickness; measurements combining modernity and elegance and fitting most wrists. The design is clean and encapsulates everything we know about F.P. Journe watches and expect to find in them. For example, the well-presented domed bezel, the slim but solid case middle, the well-curved lugs that give the watch a beautiful presence on the wrist, the flat and slim crown with its characteristic cord decoration.

The Chronomètre Souverain Havana’s main highlight is therefore, of course, the dial. Or rather, its colour, which is not the usual banal brown we usually find in watchmaking. For this watch and for the Octa with the same dial colour, the master dial-makers of Les Cadraniers de Genève – the dial company owned by F.P. Journe – worked for several months to find the right colour, and did not achieve it by using special lacquers or varnishes. The dial is in fact coated with a mix of gold and ruthenium, thus formed by a yellow material for the base combined with a dark grey metal bringing depth to the whole. The result is a very unusual colour, far from simple brown, which fits well with the 6N gold case.

In addition to its distinctive colour, the dial’s other features are classic Chronomètre Souverain, starting with the Clou de Paris guilloché work in the centre, through to the printed numerals and the chemin-de-fer minute track. The F.P. Journe-style hands and Arabic numerals forming the hour-markers are a matt ivory white colour contrasting with the brown background. The display is that of the classic editions of the Chronomètre Souverain, with central hours and minutes, small seconds between 7 and 8 o’clock, and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. The particularity of this watch lies in the fact that the power reserve does not so much indicate the residual energy stored in the barrel as the time elapsed since the watch was wound: if the hand is on the 0, it means that it is fully charged. This is more of a chronometric concept than one about energy, as the wearer of the watch can thus keep the movement in its optimal operating state at all times.

IN THE CHRONOMÈTRE SOUVERAIN BEATS THE 1304 CALIBRE

Speaking of the movement, the Chronomètre Souverain Havana is powered by the hand-wound Calibre 1304, only 4 mm thick. It is a movement whose development was guided by the quest for the best chronometry, with a focus on precision. It is inspired by the marine chronometry of the early 19th century and built around two barrels which, as in classic precision watches, work in parallel; a solution that does not serve to improve the duration of the power charge (which here is around 56 hours) but the stability of the pair supplied to the regulating organ.

Being a certified chronometer, it uses specific solutions to achieve maximum precision, such as the free-sprung balance with four inertial weights. Like all movements designed and developed by François-Paul Journe, the architecture of Calibre 1304 is extremely pleasant and elegant, with a central ratchet wheel next to the crown distributing energy to the two barrels. Moreover, if you look carefully, there is no visible link between the barrels and the escapement wheel. This is not a sleight of hand by the Master, but a kind of ‘mystery balance wheel’ with part of the time train located underneath the dial.

Like most of the movements encased in F.P. Journe’s modern collections, the Calibre 1304 animating the Chronomètre Souverain Havana is mainly crafted in 18-carat pink gold for the bridges and mainplate. All parts are meticulously decorated, as befits the House’s calibres, with thin Côtes de Genève, polished bevels, fine circular-graining on the mainplate, countersinks and polished screw heads.

BEAUTY AND BALANCE

Available either with an alligator strap and pin buckle (35,600 Swiss francs), or with a beautiful five-row bracelet in 6N gold (38,600 Swiss francs), the watch can be tried on in Milan, at GMT ‘Great Masters of Time’ on Via della Spiga, 25. François-Paul Journe’s partner since 2007, in 2014 GMT ‘Great Masters of Time’ was the first retailer in Europe to open an Espace F.P. Journe, a salon where collectors and enthusiasts can see and touch the Master’s collections.

In essence, if the Chronomètre Souverain represents François-Paul Journe’s dedication to chronometric excellence, the Havana dial version also combines this with a modern and seductive look. Although the latest Chronomètre Optimum pushes this dedication even further, the Chronomètre Souverain has an even greater balance, the result of that ‘simple complexity’ we wrote about at the beginning. Aesthetics true to the brand’s vocation and near-perfect measurements make it, in our opinion, one of the most beautiful watches on the market today.

By Davide Passoni