Longines Conquest Chronograph: sporting instinct

Every major watch brand has one or more collections with which it identifies most strongly. The reasons may be different, just as different are the stories that have led the various lines to embody, over time, the values and spirit of their respective brands. Longines is no exception. Indeed, as a manufacturer with a long and rich history, its variety is expressed in different collections, each tied to the essence of the brand in their own way. Among them, the Conquest – which has recently reintroduced the Longines Conquest Chronograph –deserves a special mention.

THE IMPORTANCE OF THE CONQUEST COLLECTION

The importance Longines gives to this line is already clear from its name. A collection capable of conquering the heights of precision and reliability right from its birth, back in 1954. Seventy years of excellence and a strong name, because it was the first ever given to a watch by Longines. Before the Conquest, infact, timepieces were identified by serial numbers. Registered in Switzerland on 3 April 1954, Conquest was the first product line launched by the Saint-Imier brand. The Longines Conquest Ref. 9001 had a 35 mm diameter case and a self-winding mechanical movement, the Longines calibre 19AS. The caseback featured an inlaid medallion in champlevé enamel.

Over the course of its history spanning seven decades, the Conquest has witnessed some of the key moments in the development of watchmaking, starting with the quartz era. In 1969, Longines launched a top-secret project to design and produce a quartz watch, the first cybernetic calibre L6512. Thus a collaboration with Ebauche began, which led to the creation of the Conquest Electronic line, with several references born in the 1970s such as, for example, the 1532-4.

A more modern quartz version gave rise, in 1984, to the Conquest VHP Ref. 4952. Its 33 mm-diameter case contained Longines’ first VHP quartz movement, the calibre 276 V.H.P. (an acronym for Very High Precision). It had a variation of plus or minus one minute over five years, that is, five to ten times the precision of a classic quartz watch. The Conquest VHP was relaunched by the brand in 2017.

Alongside quartz, the Conquest also experimented with the other great revolution of the time, that of the tuning-fork calibre (such as, for example, the Longines 6312), made famous by Bulova’s Accutron. With that type of movement, Longines equipped references called Ultronic, which included chronographs, day-dates, time-only and even some diver’s watches. This solution was the technological parallel to the mechanical Ultra-Chron, as both systems aimed at absolute precision.

EVOLUTION TOWARDS THE LONGINES CONQUEST CHRONOGRAPH

Our rather brief overview will help understand the importance of the collection in Longines’ offerings. Starting with classic, automatic models, with clean dials with arrow-shaped indexes and a circular brushed finish just below them, it remained virtually unchanged until the 2000s. Then it became a sort of ‘dress’ version of theHydroConquest, with the same 30-bar water-resistant case, but without the rotating bezel.

Likewise, the dials: with bold, oversized indexes, combined baton hour markers and Arabic numerals. Thus, for about 20 years, the Conquest remained more of a sporty-elegant watch than a casual watch, straying somewhat from its original nature: that of a timepiece that could be worn on all occasions, even in the office, but tough enough to cope with outdoor activities over the week end. Until last year, when the collection was redesigned – especially the chronograph. 

With a decidedly sportier look, the Longines Conquest Chronograph was released in 2023 in four colour combinations: a champagne dial with black bezel and counters; a silver-white version with black bezel and counters and red Tachymetre inscription; a black one with black bezel, silver counters and red Tachymetre inscription; and, finally, a blue dial with tone-on-tone bezel and counters. This year, if possible, the sporty look is enhanced even further thanks to the new colours: silver-plated dial and blue or green counters matching the colour of the bezel. 

AESTHETICS OF THE WATCH

In terms of design, the Longines Conquest Chronograph represents a definite evolution from the past. We are looking at a more elegant, more angular, more modern chronograph, but also more elegant than its predecessors: a clear sign of the desire to make the collection more refined. Specifically, the shape of the case has been entirely remodelled, with straighter, more rigorous lines, simpler pump pushers, and the crown shield system is also smaller and better integrated into the overall design of the watch.

Since we are talking about the sportiest model in this collection, Longines has opted for a 42 mm steel case, as opposed to the 41 mm of the time-only model. It houses the chronograph calibre L898.5, whose thickness also increases the overall thickness of the watch to 14.3 mm, which is in any case in line with that of other automatic chronographs. The good news about the case comes from its water-resistance, which has been increased to 10 bar from the 5 of previous chronographs. A process that goes in the opposite direction to that of the time-only: the references in the previous collection were water-resistant up to 30 bar, now down to 10.

The watch has character, thanks to interesting design details such as the fixed bezel with a ceramic insert and the tachymeter scale matching the colour of the counters. It is flanked by classic – and top-notch, as one would expect from Longines – finishes such as the alternation of polished and finely satin-finished surfaces, the screw-down crown, the anti-reflective sapphire crystal protecting the dial, and the screw-down transparent back. The latter has a slightly bulky recessed ring, but this is understandable considering that the movement has a diameter of 30 mm inside a 42 mm case.

SPORTS SOUL

In crafting the dial of the Longines Conquest Chronograph, the brand has demonstrated all its mastery. The result is a sporty and well-balanced look that might make those who normally like the chronograph version prefer the time-only version. The evolution is evident with the completely redesigned dial. On all versions of the Conquest, the oversized Arabic numerals have disappeared, replaced by applied trapezoidal hour markers that connect the chapter ring’s outer ring with the centre of the dial.

Readability is an interesting detail. At the base of each index is a framed square of SuperLuminova and, where they cannot be placed due to the presence of the counters (3, 6 and 9 o’clock), the luminescent material is applied to the index itself. The ring with a circular finish, a reference to the past, is placed below the indexes themselves, matching the bezel and counters. Finally, the hands have also been redesigned, and one element is missing: the date display. A choice not much appreciated by many but which, on the other hand, also attracts quite a few admirers.

The colour splash on the bezel and counters is also found on the blue, green or black rubber straps with folding clasp. The straps’ finish is made of the hourglass motifs to match the dial, reminiscent of the Longines logo. They are complemented by the classic three-row steel bracelet with a polished finish and deployment buckle. When one buys the watch, it comes either with a bracelet or a strap, not both, also because the chronograph is not equipped with a system for quick release and replacement. As is often the case, strap or bracelet affect the final price: €4,150 for the Longines Conquest Chronograph with a strap, €4,300 for the bracelet version.

THE LONGINES CONQUEST CHRONOGRAPH’S CALIBRE

The ‘engine’ of the watch is the Longines calibre L898.5, currently fitted only to the Conquest Chronograph collection. Developed on the basis of the L895.2 (fitted in the chronographs of the Heritage collection), it in turn derives from the ETA 2892 via the ETA A31.L01. Visible through the sapphire case back, this automatic chronograph calibre is equipped with an antimagnetic silicon spring and a good 59-hour power reserve.

From a technical point of view, it is a chronograph module on an ETA 2892 base, not an integrated chronograph and time train architecture. This means that its performance is almost identical to that of an integrated chronograph, but that the view from the back is that of a normal automatic calibre. A technical choice made by Longines, which could also have used other calibres in its catalogue for this model, such as the L688.2 with column wheel. Even so, the Longines Conquest Chronograph remains an excellent watch with great value for money.

By Davide Passoni